Friday, March 14, 2014

Copenhagen



 Getting to downtown Copenhagen from the airport was slick and quick on the commuter train.  Within 15 minutes, we were at Generator Hostel, a couple blocks from the main canal.  We absolutely dug the Generator.  I say "dug" because it was a hip place and it seemed like an appropriate word.  The best part about it, besides the clean, sparse room with 2 bunkbeds and our own bathroom, and the awesome location, was the huge lounge area.  At all hours of the day and night, this gorgeously designed common area was full of people, playing pool, watching TV in the "home theater" area, connecting with wifi on the bank of computers, eating at the bar tables, sitting on the many couches and chairs and congregating in large, boisterous groups of young people from all over the world, judging by the languages we overheard.  We made good use of the free photobooth and had some fun there.

Speaking of languages, English was as prevalent, if not more, than Danish everywhere we went.  Whereas in France, I feel like you should at least attempt the language, or ask first if the person you're talking to speaks English, it seemed superfluous to go through that formality in Denmark.  Of course they spoke English!  It might even be rude to ask.  What are we doing in education here in the states if we can't even teach a second language to our population, while everyone else in the world can?  I feel crazy-lucky that my kids are in the immersion program.  Totally lucked out on that!


Chocolate milk is like the national drink of Denmark.  Well, that and Carlsburg.


At the Danish National Museum.  Embarrassingly, we spent far more time at the Japanese anime free photo booth, mugging for shots of us with enlarged eyeballs, than we did perusing displays of Viking costumes and primitive tools.  But we sure did have fun!
Street market as we pounded the cobblestones.

Our friend Donna Egan told us about the original Christus statue located in Copenhagen at the Church of Our Lady.  We have a replica of it at Temple Square in Salt Lake.  When we walked into the church, the statue really spoke to us, it was so familiar.  I'm glad we found out about it, because it wouldn't necessarily been in any of the guide books.  There are a hundred beautiful churches in Copenhagen.
The queen's palace.
Shawarma boxes, our street food of choice.  It's a box of lettuce, tomatoes and the most savory, complex gyro meet ever, like gyro with an Indian flare.  And cheap!
Back at the museum.

We got so lucky!  We hit the ballet at exactly the right time to see Manon for dirt cheap.  Of course, we were on the very last row.  I could literally touch the ceiling of this incredible theater.  The stage, however, was somewhat more distant.  We all of us in our section had to crane our necks to see the whole stage.  Almost the whole stage.  I did have a full view of the massive orchestra pit.  The orchestra was unbelievable.  If the dancing hadn't been so intense and mind-boggling, I could have just listened to the music.  It was neat to see Manon because I can't see Ballet West doing it.  It is too avant-guardish; intensely sensual and violent.  But it's a classic as far as choreography.  We were so happy to be there.  Of course, Manon, the prostitute/protagonist, was going to die in the end, but I still cried uncontrollably when she collapsed in her boyfriend's arms, after such a tragic life.  That final pas de deux was enough to bring the toughest critic to their knees.  It was stunning.  The audience gave a prolonged "European" ovation, with the stomping and the clapping in unison in 4's.  It was truly rousing!  And we got to be there!

We were in a little shop when Ruby gasped and said, "Mom, your diamond is gone!"  The poor shop keeper was beside herself.  I was in a daze.  My ring looked so ugly and naked!  Outside the shop, Scott was saying, "We'll never find it," when I reached into my coat pocket and felt it.  I put it in my hand and said, "Here it is."  I cannot believe the miracle that the diamond was in my pocket.  I ran back into the shop to tell the woman who was so upset.  I had no idea the diamond was so sharp on the tip, but it could have easily worked its way through the pocket in no time, as it cut right through the plastic and paper I wrapped it in.  also, if I hadn't known it was missing, I may have felt it, glanced at it, and maybe flicked it away.  It is super light and not very pretty outside of its setting.  It definitely didn't look like anything.  I am still astounded that it wasn't lost, that it played out exactly like that.  We took it to a jeweler who said two of the claw things were broken, and it would be expensive to fix.  Nothing like carrying around a $2,000, very sharp, very small, loose diamond in your purse!

Than main canal.  Storybook quaint, lined with linen-and-flowers restaurants.  The weather was cold and the night came early, giving Copenhagen a cozy, dark, ethereal quality.  Add to that the quietude of the place, with the hundreds of bikes streaming by in lieu of car traffic.  It seemed like the whole place was still solemnly wrapped up in the clutches of winter, ready to burst forth into spring.











Golda and Scott climbed the steps up to the top of a church spire.  I wouldn't go; it was too scary!  The stairs were on the outside of the spire!
Golda and Ruby went into this museum, where the crown jewels are on display, while Scott and I walked to get pastries and watched the guard warming up for their daily walk from the parliament to the queen's palace.

Bikes were prolific, and none of them locked up.
More shawarma boxes!
The bathroom designations in our hostel.  Funny!
We never saw the pastry we would describe as a "Danish."  Instead, chocolate bread was everywhere, and these poppyseed things with almond paste inside.  Yum!  We actually got chocolate croissants at 7-11, because they were the cheapest thing, and incredibly good.

But this day, we walked around a farmers market-type place, where we all shopped for various food items.  Scott and I had to try the "smorrebrodde," or open-faced sandwiches, that Denmark is known for.  They did not disappoint!  Mine was breaded fish, and capers in hollandaise sauce, or something, on a brown bread.  I learned that the Danish term for fresh fish is "frisk fisk."  It's everywhere.  I had no idea Danish was so similar to English.  I don't know anything about the verbs or structure, but signs that were in both languages showed that Danish looks like English with silly spellings, and vice versa.  It made us laugh.


All the outdoor cafes were equipped with blanket throws in big baskets or on the chair backs, and sometimes pillows like this one.  That far north, I guess you can't let the cold keep you indoors, or you'd never go out.  You just snuggle up with your chocolate milk!
Fave place!  The guys working there had to literally climb out of a hole from the basement to serve us.  Space is at a premium and building codes just might be a tad more lenient than where we're from!  Holy fire hazard, employees wedged into a basement!
Aaahhhh.  This poster reminds me of the woman who rode up to the theater on her bike, sporting a full-length mink coat.  Everyone bikes everywhere.

Loved the color of these buildings.
Chocolate milk and kinds of juice we don't have here.  This was on our way back from seeing the famous, if underwhelming Little Mermaid statue.  Hans Christian Andersen is from here...timely with Frozen being so huge, an adaptation of his The Snow Queen.
Oh, here's our Pizza Shawarma guy, having crawled out of the cave to slice us off some mouth-watering meat.  (Pictures are so out of order.  Sorry!)

We wanted to see the "anarchist community," Freetown Christiania, which has quite a fascinating history.  We thought it would be a bit more touristy, given that it's a major tourist destination.  When we got there, we realized Trip Advisor must be talking about a different type of tourist than us, Mormons with two kids in tow.  Others we saw there were on what we'll call "agro-tourism" missions.  Golda freaked out at all the vendors offering huge, and I mean huge, selections of cannabis.  She also freaked out at the languid crowds enjoying said merchandise in big, fat quantities.  That said, it was a mellow, seemingly organized place, with a hippie vibe, food for sale and friendly people all around.  Reading Christiania's history, it seems like the citizens have done an admirable job of governing themselves over the decades, outside the purview of the E. U. or Denmark.  Upon entering, a sign said, "You are now leaving the E.U."  Inside, there were "no photo" signs everywhere, because laws regarding the selling of marijuana are somewhat subject to interpretation, although it's widely accepted inside Christiania.

Anyway, we were glad to be back in the E. U!

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